|Size four finished dress.|
To be donated to Operation Christmas Child.
You can find the written instructions with the fabric requirements and cutting measurements that I did earlier in PDF form in this link: Basic Pillowcase Style Dress Instructions for Sizes 1/2 thru 14.
Illustrations follow instructions.
Step one: gather supplies.
- 100% cotton Fabric
- 1/2" wide elastic
- Wide, double fold bias tape.
Step two: prepare supplies according to PDF measurements.
- Cut fabric
- Cut bias tape
- Cut elastic
Step three: sew seam to make a tube.
- With right sides together stitch across the raw edges of the fabric with a 1/2" seam--lengthwise of the dress, from top to bottom.
- For added stability and to keep it from fraying finish the edges of this seam.
- Press seam open or to the side depending on how it is finished.
- This will become the center back of the dress.
|TIP: Finish raw edges of this seam with one of the following:|
serge, french seam, zig zag, etc.
|TIP: Press seam flat before pressing open or to the side.|
This sets the stitches and makes final pressing easier and smoother.
Step four: Prepare armholes.
- Fold dress tube with seam down center back.
- Using template from the PDF pattern draw the shape onto the fabric on top left and right sides of front. Or pin the pattern piece onto the fabric for guidance. [As you can see I made a cardboard template with a different size cut out of each corner since I make so many of all sizes.]
- Cut out armholes.
Step five: prepare elastic casing along top edge.
- Press down 1/4" along top of front & back between armholes (towards wrong side).
- Press or pin down 3/4" more. [I like to press instead of pin.]
Step six: finish casings & insert elastic.
- Stitch about 1/8" from bottom edge of folded over piece to form casing.
- Be sure to back stitch at beginning and end for a few stitches.
- Insert elastic thru casing.
- Match end of elastic to end of casing. Pin about 1 1/2" in from edge to keep the casing flat. Pull up tight, pulling end of elastic thru other end of casing about 2" and slowly let back into casing matching ends--this will make a flat end, pin as on other side to keep flat end.
- Stitch about 1/4" from edge of both ends--back stitch twice for added strength.
- Leave pins in place until after bias tape is applied.
|There are several tools available for threading elastic.|
If none are available to you, a large safety pin works great.
- Press under 1/4" along bottom edge of dress towards inside.
- Press or pin under 2" more to form hem.
- Stitch about 1/8" from folded edge. Be sure to overlap stitching and back stitch a couple of stitches--beginning at the center back seam works well.
- Turn right side out and press hem well.
Step eight: apply bias tape straps.
- Leave the thread on the machine that matches the fabric (if different than what you will use for the straps) in case any of your stitching does not get covered by the straps.
- Unfold and pin the bias tape to the wrong side of the dress along the armholes matching the center of the armhole with the center of the strap. NOTE: Commercial bias tape is folded so that one side hangs over the other side slightly. You want to put the short side to the back side of the dress--this way when you fold it over and top stitch on the front your stitching will be covered.
- Stitch in the ditch (where bias tape was folded) being sure to back stitch at both ends for added strength.
- Fold the raw ends of the bias tape to the inside (about 1/4") and fold bias tape over where you just sewed, bringing it around to the front of the dress and pin in place.
- Stitch from one end of the bias tape to the other being sure to catch the back side in the stitching. Back stitch at both ends and where it attaches to the dress. See images below and tip.
|TIP: begin stitching about 1/2" from end of strap:|
back stitch to end, pull threads taunt to gently
pull bias tape as you begin to sew forward (helps
to keep it from jamming up).
- Remove pins that are holding elastic.
- Pull elastic taught holding onto ends to evenly distribute.
- Tie straps into bows.
I hope you enjoy making these dresses as much as I do. I would love to hear if you make one and for whom you make it or to where you donate it.
You can find these variations at the link below.
|Click Image for PDF instructions with fabric and measurement requirements.|
These instructions are for your personal use, which includes sharing them with friends or groups who are interested in blessing little girls with a simple dress.
Disclaimer: I tried my best to get it all right, but I wouldn't be surprised if there is an error or there is a part that is unclear. Let me know if you find something that needs corrected.
Fabric & bias tape provided by The Fabric & Yarn Lady on Etsy.
Linked up at Fluster Buster's Creative Muster.